Learn how to make a tool cabinet with a charging station to store all your drills and miscellaneous tools. Organize your workshop by utilizing the vertical space with this wall cabinet. You can store your tools, have a designated place for your drills and tool chargers.
I don’t have many tools….if any that plugin. Outside of my miter saw and bandsaw, its pretty much a battery powered operation. I have been struggling with organizing my workshop for some time now with chargers everywhere. I needed a designated place to store the various chargers for all the tools that I have. With a small workshop floor space is a premium. So I looked around and I got an idea. If I better utilize the walls I could free up some floor space and maintain my chargers in one central location. So I decided to make a tool cabinet.
I created a wall tool storage cabinets that housed my chargers, drills and other miscellaneous tools.
Materials (per cabinet)
- 3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. plywood ( I used inexpensive 23/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Sheathing)
- Everbilt 1-1/2 in. x 30 in. Bright Nickel Continuous Hinge paired with SPAX #6 x 1-1/2 in. T-Star Plus Drive Trim Head Partial Thread Zinc Coated Screws
- Screws (I used Kreg #8 x 1-1/2 in. Square Maxi-Loc Head Coarse Pocket-Hole Screws & SPAX #8 x 1-1/2 in. T-Star Drive Flat-Head Partial Thread Yellow Zinc Coated Multi-Material Screws & SPAX #10 x 3 in. T-Star Drive Flat-Head Partial Thread Yellow Zinc Coated Multi-Material Screws to screw into the studs for the french cleats.)
- Everbilt 1/4 in. Nickel Plated Angled Shelf Support (8-Pack)
- 3 – 3/8″ x 48in round wooden dowels
- Hardboard Tempered (Common: 1/8 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft.)
- Impact driver
- Drill Driver
- Circular saw
- Kreg Rip-Cut
- Kreg Pin Hole Jig
- Can Do Clamp
- Brad Nailer
- miter saw
- Laser Level
- Stud Finder
- Kreg pocket hole jig
OK, Let’s Get Dirty!
1. French Cleats
I started by creating french cleats out of plywood. The reason I started with the french cleats is because I wanted to mark off the area where I would be placing the cabinets. To create the french cleats I used the same plywood sheathing I used to create the cabinets.
The boards were a total of 6 inches wide and I cut them in half at a 45-degree angle. To gauge that I was evenly installing the boards for the french cleats I didn’t separate the two boards.
This gave me a straight level surface where I could place my level to ensure that it was all level. I then screwed the lower half of the french cleat to the wall into studs.
2. The Body
Once the wall support was in place I began constructing the body of the cabinets. The wall space where I was going to install the storage allowed room for two cabinets. So using the circular saw and Kreg Rip-Cut I cut the boards to the width of the body of the cabinets. Then I took it over to the miter saw to cut it down to size.
With all the pieces cut I started by assembling using pocket screws.
Then I found it easier to predrill countersink holes and just use regular wood screws. To hold the boards in place this Can Do Clamp was the perfect solution. It’s both a clamp and a vice. It made the process go super fast.
At the bottom of the body of the cabinet, I added notches to hold my drills and drivers. I wanted to squeeze as many drills in as possible.
Using the brad nailer I nailed the holders together. Then used it to gauge the height of the first shelf or charging shelf.
Then screwed the shelf to the sides of the body of the tool cabinet. With the shelf in place, I was then able to screw the drill holders to the bottom of the tool cabinet.
The 2nd shelf height was determined by the height of the tallest battery charger that I own. I then cut 2 pieces of scrap wood to hold the shelf in place while I screwed it to the sides of the tool cabinet.
During this process, it is important to make sure the shelves are level at all times. You don’t want tools are chargers sliding off.
The remaining shelves are adjustable. So using the Kreg Pin Hole Jig I drilled the holes for the upper shelves.
Using a 1 1/2″ spade drill bit I drilling large holes on the sides of the cabinets to run the wires for the chargers.
I closed up the back of the body of the tool cabinet using 1/8″ hardboard by just nailing it to the back using the brad nailer.
Finally, I added the two top portions of the french cleats to the back of the cabinet.
And hung the body of the cabinet to the wall.
With all the boards cut to size for the door I began assembling the doors.
Again the Can Do Clamp came in very handle in the assembly process.
The door front is the same plywood used for everything else.
I marked about 3 inches from the bottom of each shelf. This is where I drilled the holes to run the 3/8″ dowels.
I found it was easier to drill entirely through one side and use a mallet to run the dowel to the other side.
Then I could easily close up the hole with wood putty.
I attached the hinges to the door using longer screws that what came with the hinge set. The screws I used were about 1 1/2.”
But I predrilled the holes and drilled the screws in place.
3. Attach the door to the body of the tool cabinet
I found it was easier to attach the door to the cabinet after I’d placed it on the wall. Also, it was lighter that way.
This is a shop build so you can leave it as is or paint it. I opted to paint it white.
I loved how this all turned out and now I have a designated spot for my chargers. One thing I realized after doing this. It probably wouldn’t be wise to charge all my batteries at the same time. Hahaha, It would overload my circuits. So be aware of that when setting up your charging station. Also, I added some rare earth magnets to the doors by drilling into the board and adhering the magnet using construction adhesive. This made it easier for the doors to close and stay closed.
Till Next Time. ~T.
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